Tuesday, June 19, 2012

Photo TIPS! ~ Bokeh

"BOKEH!!!!" 

You might have seen that over the internet in the comments of a photograph, or even as the name of a  photograph, but what does Bokeh mean?
First lets start off with clearing up some confusion I have seen related to Bokeh. One of the big confusions that I see very often is confusing Bokeh with the actual background (the things that are in the background) but Bokeh is related to how the background looks when it is blurred. To further explain the confusion lets use one of my pictures:


If you look towards the right of the picture (the eagles left side) you might notice how the ferns (the green plants, also located under the eagle) begin to blur. The blur itself is the Bokeh. If you look even closer, the blur begins to resemble circles. The reason it is shaped like a circle is because the lens, in which the light enters, is circular.


*If you grab a piece of paper and cut a star shaped hole into it about the size of the front of the lens, and place it on the lens the Bokeh will become star shapped (once again, the shape of the lens where the light enters determines the shape of the Bokeh). 

The confusion I see most often is thinking that the Bokeh is the background itself, and NOT the blur. The blur is what determines Bokeh, if the background is very clear and focused (normally when using small Aperture Click here for Tutorial on Aperture) and there is no blur then there is no Bokeh.
A picture with no Bokeh looks like this:

Notice how the entire background is in-focus and there is no blur.  

Now how do you make Bokeh? Well it's very simple. 

Bokeh is created when the Aperture of the lens is very large (small f/stop #) and there is a small amount of focused space relative to the size of the background. What that means is that if I have an Aperture of f8 (8 f/stop) and I am taking a picture of a person standing 5ft away from me, and we are on a field that is 300yd long, then the background will be out of focus because the 8 f/stop number is not capable of focusing so much space in the background. In other words it is possible to create Bokeh (blurry background) with a large f/stop #, as long as the background contains a space larger than the in-focus area.
The easiest way to achieve Bokeh is to have a very large Aperture (low f/stop #) like f1.8 (f1.8 = 1.8 f/stop) or any number usually lower than f5.6. This will create a very small amount of in-focus area when taking the picture and so if the background goes about 15ft further than the subject in focus then you should have the blurred effect: like this:

I used a VERY small f/stop # (Big Aperture) therefore the background is completely
blurred.

Good/Bad Bokeh

This, like art itself, is very relative to taste. Some people might consider Good Bokeh bad, and Bad Bokeh good. The background of the picture above of the flower might look nice to some, but ugly to others. In reality I do not know of, and doubt the existence, of a standard for depicting the quality of Bokeh. Bokeh is like air, it is what it is, and you either like it or not (I hope you like air for your own sake). So you are the one that determines the worth of Bokeh, but only for yourself. I love the image of the flower above because of the HUGE contrast there is between the in-focus flower, and the completely burred background. Yet the smooth texture of the flower blends in quite a lot with the smooth background.

If you have any questions let me know by posting in the comments section under the post. Let me know if you enjoyed the post, and if it was helpful. Remember to SUBSCRIBE and if you would like a free picture (after subscribing of course ;)] the follow this Link.

Keep on Snappin',
Ravimi

Monday, June 18, 2012

One of those Randoms! ~ "Collage Photography"

So while I was navigating through my Blog I noticed something interesting; when I scrolled the page to just the right spot, the picture on the foreground matched up with the picture in the background! I saw this and I thought of how awesome it would be to put them together, but then I remembered that I would never published any edited pictures! Anyways I thought about it pretty hard and decided to do it for the fun and the art I could be making, almost forgetting it's a photograph and focusing on the Collage art aspect and that I would give it away for free to followers of my photography. Yes, the picture below is for you, it's a thank you for signing up on any of my social media sites and following my progress as a photographer.

Fun Fact: All the images used to make this collage were taken on the same day, within the same hour, and for the same theme: Sunset photography. Also, almost all the pictures are taken towards the same direction and are positioned (on the Collage) similar to where the were taken.

Share this with everyone you know and get them to SUBSCRIBE! and if you haven't signed up yet and would like to download this picture then make sure to SUBSCRIBE! Stay tuned for more Collages in the future.


Keep on Snappin',
Ravimi




Sunset Miracles 

Sunday, June 17, 2012

Photo and Personal Style ~ Continuation

Here are some more pictures I've taken! I hope you enjoy.

ISO 100
1/1250 Shutter Speed
2.5 Aperture
50 mm 
ISO 100
1/4000 Shutter Speed
5.6 Aperture
300mm 
ISO 100
1/4000 Shutter Speed
5.6 Aperture
300mm 
ISO 100
1/4000 Shutter Speed
4.0 Aperture
75mm 
ISO 200
1/125 Shutter Speed
4.5 Aperture
50mm 
ISO 200
1/125 Shutter Speed
6.3 Aperture
50mm 
ISO 100
1/250 Shutter Speed
13 Aperture
50mm 
ISO 100
1/400 Shutter Speed
5.6 Aperture
300mm 
ISO 100
1/200 Shutter Speed
5.6 Aperture
300mm 
Keep on Snappin',

Ravimi

Friday, June 15, 2012

Photo and Personal Style

So I was looking at my latest pictures and decided it should be about time I shared some information about my photography process. The pictures below were taken during the afternoon Golden Hours near a bridge that connects two cities (both cities divided by a very large body of water).
The first image is of a wave breaker that had been broken down by the waves. The warm yellow and orange light from the Sun helped create a more lively subject. I focused on the middle because I liked how that section of the wall was lower and closer to the water.

*Some of you may have noticed the "Personal settings on camera" part under the image's description. This is part of the description refers to the camera settings used, ex: Sepia, Black and White, Purple, Green. Except I used my own settings that I developed through experiences with shooting SOOC (straight out of camera). All my pictures come directly from the camera and never go through any post processing after being taken. This made it difficult to sometimes get the "real" colors and details I saw with my eyes, so in order to stick with my self-enforced goal of being an SOOC photographer I used my knowledge to fiddle around with my camera settings until I found what best pleased my taste. 

The second image was when the sun was almost at the ends of the earth (that means almost under the horizon). I really love this picture because it makes me think, for whatever reason, of the 1930's, which was a time in which I never existed. It also reminded me of The Great Gatsby kind of sunset. This image was also shot with my own personal settings. I used a medium sized Aperture in order to maintain the clouds in focus but not so closed that the magical detail created by low f/stops would be effected. Similar to the first shot, the Aperture that is closer to being more open (small f/stop number) the more focused and the better the lens tends to work (I recommend an f/stop between 2.2-3.5).

ISO 200
1/250 Shutter Speed
2.2 Aperture
50mm
Personal settings on camera*

ISO 100
1/200 Shutter Speed
5.6 Aperture
Personal settings on camera*
I hoped you liked the images and remember to SUBSCRIBE!

Keep on Snappin',
ravimi

Contests! "Free and Worthy 7"

So I've decided to start a post based only on Contests. I will Try and do one of these posts on a monthly basis. The post will contain a list of 7 contests that are, as the title states, "Free (no fee to apply) and Worthy (prizes are worth the investment)". I hope you like these posts, if you do make sure to share them with your friends.

CONTEST LIST









If you know of any other contests let me know and if I find it "Free and Worthy" I will post on the next contest post with your name/username being referenced (unless asked not too).

Keep on Snappin',
Ravimi   

Thursday, June 14, 2012

REVIEW! ~ Canon Speedlite 320ex

Good afternoon and welcome to the next ravimi blog post! Today I will be doing something special, not because I'm reviewing a special product (but it is special in some ways) but because I do not write many reviews on my site, unless requested (like this one).
Anyways, today I will be talking about one of Canons latest products: the Canon Speedlite 320ex. I've owned this for about 2 months now; therefore, I will only be able to give a review based off my knowledge and experience of 2 months. I would like to think my reviews as being a little unique; I personally am not a person that looks at a product and talks about the negative aspects of it (unless it's really obviously bad) but I focus on the good, and reinforce those good aspects and how they serve to your advantage. So lets get down to business!

The 320ex is a part of the Speedlite series that consists of the 220, 270 (II), 320 (yours truly), 380,420, 430, 550, 580, and 600. When I bought this flash one of the main things that caught my attention was the on-flash shutter button (shown in the picture below).


Courtesy of Google images

This flash was the very first of the canon ex series to have this accessory, which is one of its special aspects. I use it pretty often when I use the flash and it has helped a lot because now I can stay with the flash and move it where needed without having to go back to the camera to take the picture (to use this the flash has to be pointing towards the camera when pressing the button and then you have 5 seconds, or so, to move the flash back into position. The furthest I got with the flash was about 20ft and I still had the ability to use the shutter button.
Another special thing about this camera is that it has an LED light source (as shown in the image below).

Courtesy of Google images (the red arrow was my little edit)
This LED light serves for the video mode of the camera and is used during video shoots in dark locations. This was the first Flash to carry this capability when I bought it about 2 months ago. The LED is useful but it is also not very powerful because it is small; therefore, it cannot carry a large LED power source that projects a lot of light. The light does work when the subject is about 3-5ft away in total darkness, but that is the limit if you want to maintain the subject visible.

This flash has been very helpful when I needed it. It serves great as a bounce flash (using surfaces to reflect the light off) and is great as a slave flash. It cannot be used as a Master flash from my current knowledge but for a flash that is not to expensive relative to it's siblings it is a great purchase. The battery life is great: I shot about 200 pictures with full power and it always kept up to my needs (which was 1 picture every 5-15 seconds) and there was enough power left that I was able to use it for half of  another event without having to change batteries (uses 4 AA batteries). The 320ex also has a telephoto mode where the head piece (where the bulb is located) can extend about half an inch forward; this allows for images to be taken from about 5-10ft further than the normal position.

Some issues:
The only issues I had were personal preferences:
1) Lack of diffuser card (the little white card that can be popped onto the front of the bulb)
2) Cannot control the strength of the flash when in slave mode. (If someone knows how please do let me know and I will update this review.)
3) nothing, that's it, not too many complaints.

As my first Flash, I am very pleased with this product. It is very useful and inspires me to continue learning more on how to use it. I very much recommend this light as a first flash for all the reasons I talked about and because I have very little complaints for it. It is very light (weight) and easy to manipulate. If this is NOT your first flash and you own 1 or more flashes that have "slave" capabilities then I recommend buying a different flash that has "master" capabilities (ability to control "slave" flashes) I would recommend the 430ex from what I have read and seen from other users, but as a first time flash I highly recommend the 320ex.

This information is straight from the canon website and I'm sure will be of interest to those who are are interested in the specifics of the 320ex Speedlite.


Type
On-camera, E-TTL II/E-TTL autoflash Speedlite
Compatible Cameras
Type-A EOS cameras (E-TTL II/E-TTL autoflash)
Guide Number 
Flash CoverageISO 100 (m)ISO 100 (ft.)
Normal (24mm)2478.7
Tele (50mm)32105
Flash Coverage
EF lens: 24mm/50mm

EF-S lens: 15mm/31.3mm

Manual switching
Number of Flashes
Approx. 180 - 1000 flashes, with fresh AA-size alkaline batteries
Recycling Time
1) Normal flash: Approx. 0.1 - 2.3 sec.

2) Quick flash: Approx. 0.1 - 1.8 sec.
Flash Range
Normal Flash
Guide No. (ISO 100)Aperture Value
f/1.4f/2f/2.8f/4f/5.6
24 (Normal)56.1 ft.39.4 ft.28.2 ft.19.7 ft.17.1 ft.
32 (Tele)75.1 ft.52.5 ft.37.4 ft.26.2 ft.18.7 ft.

Quick Flash

Guide No. (ISO 100)Aperture Value
f/1.4f/2f/2.8f/4f/5.6
13.8 (Normal)32.5 ft.22.6 ft.16.1 ft.11.2 ft.8.2 ft.
18.4 (Tele)43.0 ft.30.2 ft.21.7 ft.15.1 ft.10.8 ft.

High-speed sync (at 1/250 sec.)

Guide No. (ISO 100)Aperture Value
f/1.4f/2f/2.8f/4f/5.6
13.8 (Normal)28.2 ft.19.7 ft.14.1 ft.9.8 ft.6.9 ft.
18.4 (Tele)37.4 ft.26.2 ft.18.7 ft.13.1 ft.9.5 ft.
AF Assist Beam
Intermittent flash firing system

Effective range:

1) At center: Approx. 13.1 ft./4m

2) Periphery: Approx. 11.5 ft./3.5m

3) LED light: Approx. 13.1 ft/4 m

*Compatible with model EOS 5D Mark II and later. Available via firmware update for: EOS-1Ds Mark III, EOS-1D Mark III, EOS 40D, EOS 50D, and EOS Rebel XS.
Custom Functions
1) C.Fn-01: Auto power off (Enabled/Disabled)

2) C.Fn-06: Quick flash w/continuous shot (Disabled/ Enabled)

3) C.Fn-10: Slave auto power off timer (60 minutes/10 minutes)

4) C.Fn-11: Slave auto power off cancel (Within 8 hours/ Within 1 hour)
Back to Top
Power Source
1) Four size-AA/LR6 alkaline batteries are used. Ni-MH or lithium batteries can also be used.

2) This Speedlite is equipped with a power-saving function that turns off the power after 90 seconds if no operations are made.
External Power Source
External power supply accessories cannot be used.
Dimensions
Approx. 2.8 x 4.5 x 3.1 in./70.0 x 115.0 x 78.4mm
Weight
9.7 oz. / 275g


I hope this review served it's purpose and that you enjoyed it. If you have any questions, comments, or answers please write them in the comments below so others cans see them. Feel free to email me at anytime about my photography and remember to SUBSCRIBE!

Keep on Snappin',
ravimi

Tuesday, June 12, 2012

Photo TIPS! ~ Aperture and DOF

In the last post (Photo TIPS! ~ Aperture) I talked about the effects of changing the Aperture and how that is related to the amount of light being received by the Camera sensor. If you haven't yet, I recommend you read that post before continuing any further (only if you do not understand the subject well). Now back to the show.

When Changing the size of the Aperture the amount of light entering the lens changes; as the f/stop increases the size of the aperture decreases and the less light enters the lens. As the f/stop decreases the size of the Aperture increases; therefore, the amount of light reaching the sensor increases. But what else does it do? The lens itself acts a lot like an eyeball; the light enters the lens through the aperture and begins to move towards the center of the lens forming a cone. The tip of the cone forms in the middle of the lens and then begins to open up again to form another cone, as shown in the pictures below. (Please excuse the poor drawings lol, I did it myself in Paint.)



The 1st picture represents a lens with a very wide Aperture (very low f/stop) and the 2nd image is the reverse: a very small Aperture (very high f/stop). The little squares inside the lens that have the diagonal lines entering them determine the size of the Depth of Field. When the Aperture is very large (low f/stop) then the boxes (represented in the 1st image) have to be close to each other in order to maintain the path of light traveling within thems. When the Aperture is very small (high f/stop) then the boxes (represented by the 2nd image) have to be far apart in order to capture the amount of light entering.


EXTRA INFO: The reason the boxes change position is because they have to compensate for the size of the cone shaped light entering through the Aperture. The boxes aim to be as full as possible with light; notice how the small boxes have the lines (that represent the light) always close to the outer extremities of the box.

The further apart the boxes are from each other the more in-focused objects will appear in the image at different distances. The area between the boxes is what I refer to as the "Area of DOF" or "DOF field" (kinda redundant lol). The size of this area changes with the Aperture because the Aperture affects the size of the cone of light entering the lens, and the width of that cone of light determines where the boxes that create the "area of DOF" will be located. All of these things are related, and the more you begin to understand that the more your skills as a photographer will develop.

If you have questions, comments, or answers please make sure to leave a comment below or send me an email. I hope this post served it's purpose and that you have a better understanding on the subject. Please be sure to send this to as many people as possible; a couple of photographers I know in different experience levels do not understand this; they might understand how to change Aperture and what effects it has but they don't know WHY it has those effects (in other words, they do not know what is happening inside the lens. Thank you for reading.

Keep on Snappin'
Ravimi

Photography